A back stitch is a hand stitch where each new stitch travels backwards to meet the end of the one before it. On the right side you get a solid, unbroken line that looks close to machine stitching. On the wrong side the stitches overlap, so every stitch is anchored twice. That overlap makes back stitch the strongest stitch you can sew by hand, and it's the one to reach for when your machine can't get to a seam, or when a short split isn't worth unpicking a whole seam for.
Back Stitch at a Glance
- What it is: a hand stitch worked backwards one stitch at a time, forming a continuous line.
- Why it's strong: each stitch overlaps the last, so one broken stitch won't unravel the seam.
- When to use it: short repairs, seams a machine can't reach, and hand-finished garments.
- What you need: a regular sewing needle, all-purpose polyester thread, and a thimble for thicker fabric.
What Is a Back Stitch and Why Is It So Strong?
Back stitch is strong because the thread doubles back on itself with every stitch. Each stitch shares a hole with the one next to it, so the line is locked at every point rather than only at the start and end.
A running stitch works differently. It weaves in and out in one direction, so if a thread is pulled or breaks, the fabric can slide along it and the seam opens. Pull on a back stitch and it stays where it is, because the overlapping stitches on the wrong side hold each other in place.
Embroiderers use the same stitch for outlines and lettering, and the Royal School of Needlework's Stitch Bank records its history. For repairs, you simply work it through two layers.
The front shows a solid line; the overlapping stitches behind are what give back stitch its strength.
How To Sew a Back Stitch by Hand
To sew a back stitch, you take one stitch backwards on the right side and the next one forwards underneath, so the needle always comes up one stitch ahead of where the line finishes.
- Thread your needle with a length roughly from fingertip to elbow; longer lengths tangle. A single thread is enough for most repairs; we'd only double it on heavy fabrics such as denim or canvas.
- Secure the start with two or three tiny stitches on top of each other on the wrong side. A knot can leave a lump or slip through loose weaves.
- Bring the needle up through the fabric one stitch length along the seam line.
- Take it back down at your starting point, closing the gap behind you.
- Bring it up again one stitch length ahead of the last stitch, then go back down into the end of the previous stitch. Repeat along the seam.
- Finish on the wrong side with two or three stacked stitches, then trim the thread.
Keep the stitches short, around 2 to 3 mm, for any seam that has to hold. Longer stitches leave gaps the seam can open along. On thick layers, push the needle with a thimble on your middle finger rather than your fingertips.
For everyday repairs, John James regular sewing needles are a reliable place to start, and our wider range of hand needles covers leather, quilting and fine work.
Each stitch goes back to meet the last one, then the needle comes up one stitch ahead.
Which Thread and Needle Work Best for Hand Repairs?
For most hand repairs, all-purpose polyester thread and a regular sewing needle will do. Heavier fabrics need stronger thread and a larger needle.
| Repair | Thread | Needle |
|---|---|---|
| Everyday clothing seams, linings, cotton and polycotton | Gutermann Sew-All | Regular sewing needle, size 7 to 9 |
| Denim, bags, canvas and outdoor gear | Gutermann Extra-Strong | Regular sewing needle, size 3 to 5 |
| Leather straps and trims | Gutermann Extra-Strong or Prym linen thread | Leather sewing needle |
| Silk, voile and other fine fabrics | Gutermann Extra-fine | Regular sewing needle, size 10 to 12 |
With John James needles, a higher number means a finer needle. Match the thread colour to your fabric, or go one shade darker if you can't find an exact match; a darker thread sinks into the weave, while a lighter one tends to show. Polyester has a little give and stands up to repeated washing; you'll find every weight in our Gutermann threads range.
Is Hand Back Stitch Stronger Than a Machine Seam?
Not usually. Back stitch is the strongest stitch you can sew by hand, but a well-tensioned machine straight stitch is generally at least as strong and far more even, because every stitch is the same length and pulled to the same tension.
A machine straight stitch is a lockstitch: the top thread and the bobbin thread loop around each other inside the fabric. Lockstitch machines have been around since the middle of the 19th century, and the Science Museum Group holds one made by William Frederick Thomas in Holborn, London, in 1853. Before machines like it, every seam was sewn by hand.
So choose back stitch for where it can go and how precisely you can place each stitch, not because it will outlast a machine seam.
One thing that trips people up: on a sewing machine, "backstitch" means using the reverse lever to lock the start and end of a seam. If a pattern tells you to backstitch at the start of a seam, it means the machine reverse, not the hand stitch.
When Does Back Stitch Beat a Machine Seam?
Back stitch beats a machine seam when the machine can't physically reach the seam, when a split is only a few centimetres long, or when you're repairing something that was stitched by hand in the first place.
Small repairs are worth the effort, too. According to WRAP's work on clothing durability, keeping clothes in use for an extra nine months could cut their carbon, water and waste footprints by up to 20%.
- Seams the presser foot can't reach. A split sleeve lining, the underarm of a lined jacket or a seam inside a finished bag would all need unpicking to fit under the machine. By hand, you work straight into the gap.
- Short splits in a long seam. When a trouser or skirt seam opens by a few centimetres, we'd usually back stitch it by hand, starting about 1 cm before the split and finishing about 1 cm after it, so the new stitches overlap the sound stitching on either side.
- Thick layers your machine struggles with. Where denim seams cross, some domestic machines skip or stall; our guide to why sewing machines skip stitches covers the machine side. For a one-off repair, a hand back stitch in Extra-Strong thread is often quicker than changing needles and settings.
- Vintage, hand-finished pieces and soft toys. Back stitch matches original hand sewing and holds toy seams that get squeezed daily. For the final stuffing gap, a ladder stitch is neater.
For patches, mending tape and the rest of a mending kit, see our repair and care range.
Your Next Split Seam: Hand or Machine?
Four questions will settle it:
- Can you get the seam under the presser foot without unpicking anything else? If not, back stitch it by hand.
- Is the split shorter than the width of your hand? Hand stitching is often faster than setting up the machine.
- Will the seam take heavy strain, such as a crotch seam or a bag handle? Use Extra-Strong thread and short stitches, or machine it if you can reach.
- Is the rest of the garment hand-stitched? Match it with back stitch.
If you'd rather learn with a tutor beside you, our classes in Colchester, Chelmsford, Ipswich and Salisbury cover seams and finishing from the basics up. You'll find needles, thimbles and thread in all our stores and online at Franklins.
