A running stitch is a single thread sewn in and out of the fabric by hand, leaving a line of evenly spaced stitches. A machine straight stitch looks similar from the top, but it's built differently: two threads lock together inside the fabric. Use running stitch for temporary tacking, gathering, delicate fabrics and small repairs where the seam won't be pulled. Use your machine's straight stitch for any seam that needs to take strain or survive regular washing.
Running Stitch vs Machine Straight Stitch at a Glance
The short version: running stitch is flexible and easy to remove, and a machine straight stitch is strong and fast.
| Running stitch (hand) | Machine straight stitch | |
|---|---|---|
| Threads | One | Two: a top thread and a bobbin thread |
| How it holds | Thread weaves through the fabric | Threads lock together between the layers |
| Strength | Low; the fabric can slide along the thread | High; each stitch is locked |
| Speed | Slow | Fast |
| Removing it | Pull the thread out | Unpick with a stitch ripper |
| Best for | Tacking, gathering, fine fabrics, light repairs, hand quilting | Permanent seams, long seams, topstitching |
What Is a Running Stitch?
Running stitch is the simplest hand stitch there is: the needle passes in and out of the fabric along a line, leaving stitches and gaps of equal length. The Royal School of Needlework's Stitch Bank lists gathering, quilting and outlining among its uses, and describes basting (tacking) as a longer, temporary version of the same stitch.
To sew it:
- Start with a small knot, or two tiny stitches on the spot if the knot might show.
- Weave the needle in and out along the line, loading three or four stitches onto the needle before pulling the thread through.
- Keep stitches and gaps the same length, and draw the thread through gently so the fabric lies flat rather than puckering.
Loading several stitches at once is quicker, and it keeps the line straighter than taking stitches one at a time. Stitch length depends on the job: around 5 mm to 1 cm for tacking you'll remove later, and 2 to 3 mm for hand quilting or anything you want to stay put.
Running stitch looks the same on both sides, and you can load several stitches onto the needle at once.
Why Isn't a Machine Straight Stitch Just a Faster Running Stitch?
Because it uses two threads instead of one. The machine needle carries the top thread down through the fabric, where it loops around the bobbin thread, and the tension pulls that join up into the middle of the layers. This is called a lockstitch, and it ties every stitch to the next.
That one difference explains most of what follows. A running stitch has nothing locking it, so if you pull the thread, the fabric slides along it and bunches up. In a seam that's a weakness; for gathering, it's exactly what you want. A lockstitch can't slide, so the seam stays flat and holds under strain.
Lockstitch machines have been sewing British seams for well over 150 years. The Science Museum Group collection includes a lockstitch machine made in Holborn, London, in 1853. Before machines like it, every seam was sewn by hand.
A running stitch weaves one thread through the fabric, while a machine locks two threads together between the layers.
When Is Running Stitch the Better Choice?
Running stitch is the better choice when the stitching is temporary, when you want the fabric to gather, or when the fabric is too fine to trust to the machine.
Tacking Before You Machine Sew
A long running stitch holds slippery layers, curves and zips in place more reliably than pins, and pulls out cleanly once the permanent seam is sewn. Our guide to tacking, also called basting, covers the different methods in detail. Use a cotton tacking thread in a contrasting colour: it snaps easily when you pull it out, so it won't drag on your permanent stitching.
Gathering by Hand
For a gathered skirt or sleeve head, sew two parallel rows of running stitch inside the seam allowance, about 5 mm apart, leaving long thread tails at both ends. Hold both tails together and ease the fabric along until it matches the width you need, then spread the gathers evenly before sewing the seam. Two rows gather more evenly than one, and give you a spare if a thread snaps.
Fine and Delicate Fabrics
Silk, chiffon, voile and georgette can pucker under a machine foot or get pulled down into the needle plate at the start of a seam. Sewing by hand, nothing presses on the fabric and you control every stitch.
Needle choice matters more here than anywhere else, because a thick needle can leave visible holes in fine, tightly woven fabric. We'd suggest milliners needles for tacking fine fabric: they're long enough to load several stitches at once and slim enough to slip through without snagging. For short, precise stitches, betweens give you more control, and regular sewing needles in a fine size such as 10 or 12 suit most lightweight fabrics. Pair them with Gutermann Extra-fine thread, which is made for light fabrics.
If you're still learning, some of these fabrics are hard work whichever way you sew them. Our guide to fabrics to avoid when learning to sew explains why.
Quick, Low-Strain Repairs
A small running stitch is enough for a lining that's come away at the hem, a label that's working loose or a small gap in a pocket bag. These spots are barely pulled when you wear the garment, so a neat running stitch in matching thread is quicker than getting the machine out. For anything that does take strain, use a back stitch instead: it's the strongest stitch you can sew by hand.
When Should You Use the Machine Instead?
Use the machine's straight stitch for any permanent seam that takes strain, gets washed often or runs more than a short distance.
- Load-bearing seams. Crotch seams, armholes, side seams and bag handles are pulled every time they're used, and a running stitch will slide and open.
- Long seams. A skirt side seam takes a minute or two on the machine and gives a more even line than careful hand sewing.
- Topstitching. Edge stitching on collars, pockets and hems depends on a perfectly even stitch length, which a machine does better than a hand.
- Stretch fabrics need something else entirely. A straight stitch and a running stitch can both snap when jersey stretches. Our guide to sewing stretch fabric without a serger covers the stitches that work.
Every sewing machine sews a straight stitch. What varies from model to model is how well it copes with fine fabrics and thick layers, so it's worth bringing a sample of the fabric you sew most when you try one in store.
Choosing Your Stitch Before You Thread the Needle
Three questions will point you to the right stitch:
- Is the stitching coming out later? Running stitch, in a contrasting tacking thread.
- Does the fabric need to gather, or is it too fine for the machine foot? Running stitch by hand, with a fine needle.
- Will the seam take strain or regular washing? Machine straight stitch, or back stitch by hand if the machine can't reach.
Match the stitch to the job: temporary and delicate work suits running stitch, and anything under strain belongs on the machine.
Needles, threads and the rest of the kit are in our haberdashery range, alongside the full range of Gutermann threads and John James hand needles. If you're not sure which needle suits your fabric, bring a scrap into any of our stores or browse online at Franklins.
