You have located the right fabric, painstakingly cut your pattern pieces, and spent hours sewing, only to see the final garment shrink in its very first wash. It is a frustrating circumstance that many sewists know all too well. Pre-washing is generally suggested as a means to prevent this issue, as materials like cotton or linen might shrink or bleed colour once they contact water and detergent.
At the same time, not every fabric reacts in the same manner. Polyester and other synthetics are typically stable, whereas silks or velvets may not fare well with a trip through the washing machine. So the issue arises: do you really need to pre-wash every single piece of fabric? In this post we will look at when pre-washing is required, when it is optional, and how to determine depending on both the fabric type and the item you are sewing.
Why Pre-Wash Fabric at All?
Shrinkage and Fit
One of the key reasons to pre-wash is shrinking. Natural fibres such as cotton, linen, and wool generally shrink in size when initially exposed to heat and moisture. A garment that fits perfectly before washing might soon feel uncomfortably tight afterwards. By pre-washing, you enable the fabric to shrink before cutting, safeguarding the fit of your completed creation.
Removing Chemicals and Finishes
Many textiles are treated with starches, dyes, or finishing chemicals during manufacture. These coatings may make the material seem crisp on the roll yet feel stiff to deal with. Washing helps to soften the fibres and eliminate excess chemicals, making the fabric simpler to sew and safer to wear against the skin.
Infographic showing chemicals and finishes being rinsed from fabric during pre-washing
Colourfastness
Another concern is colour bleed. Fabrics such as printed cottons or deep-dyed linens may release dye in their first wash. If you are combining light and dark fabrics, this can be disastrous. Pre-washing reduces the risk by allowing loose dye to wash out before you begin sewing.
Illustration of colourfastness test with damp fabric pressed between two cloths using an iron
Tip: when testing colourfastness, dampen a small hidden section of the fabric and press it with a hot iron between two pieces of white cloth. If colour transfers, it will need washing before use.
Fabrics You Should Always Pre-Wash
Some fabrics are more prone to issues than others. When dealing with natural fibres, pre-washing is usually always important to maintain the final fit and look of your item.
Showing cotton, linen, wool, and rayon as fabrics that should always be pre-washed
Cotton and Cotton Blends
Cotton is versatile and frequently used, yet it is also noted for shrinking. Even a tiny amount of shrinkage might throw off your pattern pieces, so pre-wash cotton before cutting. Prints and deeper tints may also release extra dye, which makes a first wash necessary.
Linen
Linen frequently shrinks more than cotton. The initial wash also helps soften its texture, making it simpler to handle and stitch. Skipping this step might leave you with clothing that tug at seams or feel stiff.
Wool and Wool Blends
Wool may shrink considerably if cleaned carelessly, occasionally felting in the process. Pre-washing with moderate techniques or steam treatment helps stabilise it before stitching. Always treat wool with care, since if it shrinks too much, it cannot be restored.
Rayon and Viscose
These fibres are renowned for their drape but may deform dramatically when exposed to water. Pre-washing helps expose how the material behaves so you can make concessions. Without it, you risk garments twisting or losing their form.
Practical tip: wash the fabric in the same manner you want to clean the completed outfit. This offers you a realistic sense of how it will behave over time.
Fabrics Where Pre-Washing Is Optional
Not every type of fabric demands a trip through the washing machine before you begin sewing. Some are more stable, while others are unsuitable for water altogether. In these cases, pre-washing becomes a choice rather than a rule.
Synthetics
Polyester, nylon, and acrylic are generally resistant to shrinking and hold their shape well. A light wash can still be helpful to remove surface dust or finishing treatments, but it is not essential for fit. Many sewists prefer to simply give these fabrics a gentle rinse or a quick press with steam before cutting.
Dry-Clean Only Fabrics
Silk, velvet, and fabrics with special coatings can be damaged in water. These require more delicate handling. Instead of washing, spot testing or steaming can prepare the fibres without altering their finish. For garments that will be dry-cleaned after construction, this preparation is usually enough.
Woman working on dry-clean only fabric
Craft and Home Décor Fabrics
If you are sewing products such as wall hangings, fabric baskets, or pillow coverings with detachable inners, regular washing is unlikely. In many circumstances, neglecting pre-washing may save time. However, for items that will be handled or cleaned often, such as tablecloths or blankets, a pre-wash is still advised.
Tip: when you are doubtful, try a small swatch first. A simple wash and press may indicate if the material changes substantially in size, shape, or colour.
Project-Based Decisions
Whether you pre-wash or not frequently depends on the sort of thing you are creating. The goal of the project and how it will be utilised should inform your decision.
Garments vs Decorative Items
Everyday apparel is subjected to repeated washing, so it is better to pre-wash the fabric before cutting. This guarantees the fit and shape remain true after washing. Decorative pieces, such as wall hangings or bunting, may never see the inside of a washing machine. In such circumstances, leaving out a pre-wash is unlikely to create difficulties.
Quilting and Patchwork
Quilters typically have different perspectives about pre-washing. Some like unwashed fabric because it remains crisp and simpler to cut into exact shapes. Others wash first to prevent colour bleeding, especially when mixing bright and dark fabrics in one quilt. Both ways are viable, so the decision comes down to your sewing style and the appearance you desire in the completed garment.
Sewist working on patchwork fabric
Time and Workflow Considerations
Pre-washing adds an additional step, which might seem tedious when you are eager to start. However, it may also avoid wasted effort unpicking or recreating items that shrink after their initial wash. Think of it as a trade-off: a little preparation now for peace of mind afterward. For projects with short deadlines, you may prefer to shoulder the risk, but for long-term favourites, pre-washing is frequently worth it.
Best Practices for Pre-Washing
If you decide to pre-wash, a few simple steps can make the process smoother and more effective. Treating the fabric with care before you cut helps ensure your finished project will look its best and last longer.
- Match the wash to the garment’s future care: Wash the fabric in the same way you intend to wash the finished piece. If the garment will be machine-washed at 40°C, prepare the fabric under those same conditions.
- Prevent fraying: Zigzag, overlock, or pink the raw edges before washing. This reduces the amount of loose threads and prevents the fabric from distorting.
- Press after drying: Ironing the fabric once it has dried helps restore its original shape and makes it easier to cut accurately.
- Keep notes: If you use the same type of fabric often, record how much it shrinks. This saves time and gives you confidence for future projects.
Pre-washing is not always necessary, but it can be the difference between a garment that lasts and one that disappoints. Natural fibres almost always benefit from it, while synthetics or decorative fabrics may not need the extra step. Think about how the finished item will be used and cared for, then make your choice with confidence.
For more guidance and a wide selection of fabrics ready for your next project, visit Franklins.